This is a basic simplified pattern that I have taught a few of my friends. I have put the notes here so that they can access them easily. I happily made dozens of squares like this as a child, after my mum taught me. It is a stepping stone to being able to gain confidence so you can move on to all those fabulous patterns on Ravelry and the Internet.
The written explanation, plus photos, for US terms is at the start. I have also written an explanation in UK terms at the end of this blog.
I recommend that you get someone to show you how to form the stitches, in real life. There are many ways to hold the hook and the yarn, and they potentially will all work, but some of them might be awkward and cause you to experience hand pain. There are many YouTube videos that you can watch also, if none of your friends can crochet.
Base Ring and First Round
The pattern would be written something like this -
Base Ring and First Round
The pattern would be written something like this -
6ch, ss in first ch to form a ring. Ch3, 11dc into ring, ss into top of ch3
12 sts in round
What does this mean?
Do a slip knot. This counts as the first chain.
12 sts in round
What does this mean?
Do a slip knot. This counts as the first chain.
Do 5 chain stitches.
Join to the first chain using a slip stitch.
You now have a small ring attached to a loop on your hook.
Chain 3 stitches. This will count as your first double crochet stitch.
Join to the first chain using a slip stitch.
You now have a small ring attached to a loop on your hook.
Chain 3 stitches. This will count as your first double crochet stitch.
Do 11 double crochet stitches into centre space of the ring that you made.
You might have to push the stitches around the ring as you go, to make room for them all.
Join the last stitch to the beginning of the round by making a slip stitch into the top of the chain 3.
Join the last stitch to the beginning of the round by making a slip stitch into the top of the chain 3.
So - How do you make these stitches?
How to do a chain stitch (ch)
Starting with a slip knot, you have 1 loop on your crochet hook. Yarn over the hook and pull that yarn through the loop on the hook. The size of the chain should be similar to the diameter of your hook. Not too sloppy, and not too tight.
How to do a slip stitch (ss)
Put the hook through the two legs of the V at the top of the stitch that you want to join onto.
Yarn over hook, pull that yarn through all the loops on the hook.
How to do a double crochet stitch (dc)
You should have 1 loop on your hook
Yarn over the hook.
Put the hook through the centre space in the ring.
Yarn over the hook, and pull it back through the hole.
You now have 3 loops on the hook. Push them along the shaft of the hook slightly, and even them up so that they are not too tight.
Yarn over the hook, and pull it through 2 loops.
You now have 2 remaining loops on your hook.
Yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops to complete the stitch
Okay - now, back to the pattern
How to do a chain stitch (ch)
Starting with a slip knot, you have 1 loop on your crochet hook. Yarn over the hook and pull that yarn through the loop on the hook. The size of the chain should be similar to the diameter of your hook. Not too sloppy, and not too tight.
How to do a slip stitch (ss)
Put the hook through the two legs of the V at the top of the stitch that you want to join onto.
Yarn over hook, pull that yarn through all the loops on the hook.
How to do a double crochet stitch (dc)
You should have 1 loop on your hook
Yarn over the hook.
Put the hook through the centre space in the ring.
Yarn over the hook, and pull it back through the hole.
You now have 3 loops on the hook. Push them along the shaft of the hook slightly, and even them up so that they are not too tight.
Yarn over the hook, and pull it through 2 loops.
You now have 2 remaining loops on your hook.
Yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops to complete the stitch
Okay - now, back to the pattern
Second Round
Ch 3, 5dc in the space below. *(Skip 3 dc, 6 dc in next space)*, repeat * * twice, skip 3 dc SS join to top of ch3. (There should be 24 stitches in the round, ie 4 groups of 6 sts)
What does this mean?
Chain 3 stitches. This counts as your first double crochet stitch, and means that the yarn will now be coming from the top edge of your new row and not from the base. Make the 3rd chain a little bit looser as you will be joining onto it later.
Look for the space between the 2 stitches directly below the chain 3 that you just did.
Make 5 double crochet stitches into that space. You will now have what looks like a cluster of 6 stitches. (It doesn’t matter that you overlap the 1st stitch a bit)
Ch 3, 5dc in the space below. *(Skip 3 dc, 6 dc in next space)*, repeat * * twice, skip 3 dc SS join to top of ch3. (There should be 24 stitches in the round, ie 4 groups of 6 sts)
What does this mean?
Chain 3 stitches. This counts as your first double crochet stitch, and means that the yarn will now be coming from the top edge of your new row and not from the base. Make the 3rd chain a little bit looser as you will be joining onto it later.
Look for the space between the 2 stitches directly below the chain 3 that you just did.
Make 5 double crochet stitches into that space. You will now have what looks like a cluster of 6 stitches. (It doesn’t matter that you overlap the 1st stitch a bit)
Moving your hook anti clockwise around the piece (ie to the left), skip past 3 stitches in the row below and find the space between the 3rd and 4th dc. That is where you will place the next 6 double crochet stitches.
Skip the next 3 stitches in the row below and use the space between the 3rd and 4th stitches to place another 6 double crochet stitches.
Again, skip 3 stitches and make 6 double crochet in the 3-4 space below.
Join to the top of the chain 3 with a slip stitch to end the round. This might be quite tight and you may need to get a knitting needle or a wool sewing needle to open up the space under the V for your hook to fit though.
Your piece should now look like a rounded square, with 4 well defined corners, with 6 stitch clusters in each corner ie 24 total stitches in the round.
Ch3, 2 dc in space below. * (Skip 3 dc, 6 dc in 3-4 space in corner. Skip 3dc, 3 dc in side space.) * Repeat * * twice. 6 dc in 3-4 space in last corner. Ss join in ch 3.
What does this mean?
Basic granny squares use clusters of 3 double crochet stitches, worked into the spaces between the clusters below. Some designers will call a cluster of 3 dc a Granny Stitch, or a Shell. This round will be the first to have the 3dc clusters along the sides.
Chain 3 to form the first stitch. Below that you will see a space along the side of the square, between the corners. Place your next 2 double crochet stitches in that space. This will be your first Granny Stitch cluster.
Skip past the next 3 dc to the space along the next side and do 3 double crochet stitches there.
In the next corner find the space between the 3rd and 4th stitch, and do 6 double crochet there.
Keep going around the square, putting 3 dc in the side spaces, and 6dc in the corners between the 3rd and 4th stitches.
When you have completed the last corner, join to the top of the first stitch (which was the ch3). Ta Da! This round is complete.
Note – in this pattern, I am going to get you to start each row so that it is just past the corner, as it is easier to do this as an absolute beginner. However, designers may start their rows anywhere in the circular round, and often in the corners. They may use a combination of different stitch types along the sides, and do all sorts of unusual combinations in the corners. For the moment – let’s keep it simple!
Fourth Round
Ch 3, 2dc in space below. 3dc in next side space. 6 dc in space between 3rd and 4th dc in corner. *(3dc in next two side spaces, 6dc in 3-4 space in corner)* repeat * * twice more.
Join with ss to first ch3.
What does this mean?
Chain 3, then do 2 double crochet stitches in the side space below.
In the next side space, do 3 double crochet stitches.
Find the space between the 3rd and 4th stitches in the corner and do 6 dc in that space.
Along the next side will be 2 spaces between the granny clusters below. Place 3 double crochet stitches in each space.
In the corner, place 6 double crochet stitches in the space between the 3rd and 4th stitches.
Keep adding 3 dc in the side spaces, and 6 dc in the corners, till you have done the last 6 corner stitches. Then join to the top of the Chain 3, that was the beginning of the row, with a slip stitch.
Rear of square
Let’s look at your square
It should now look quite like a Granny Square! You will see 2 granny clusters along the sides and each corner will have clusters of 6 stitches. As you add each row on, those 6 stitch clusters split in half and begin to look like granny clusters too.
Continue adding as many rows as you wish, in the same manner, placing 3 double crochets in the side spaces and 6 double crochets in the 3-4 space in the corners.
It should now look quite like a Granny Square! You will see 2 granny clusters along the sides and each corner will have clusters of 6 stitches. As you add each row on, those 6 stitch clusters split in half and begin to look like granny clusters too.
Continue adding as many rows as you wish, in the same manner, placing 3 double crochets in the side spaces and 6 double crochets in the 3-4 space in the corners.
Each succeeding round will have one extra space on each side. Just keep an eye on the corners, and always make sure that you know where the end of the round is, so that you can do a neat join, and don’t end up going around and around in an awkward spiral!
When you have enough rounds, cut the yarn with a 15cm tail and use a wool needle (or thick tapestry needle) to sew the end in 3 directions, on the wrong side, within the work so you can’t see it. It is very hard to undo after this - so make sure that you are happy with the piece, and that there are no errors that you need to correct before sewing in the ends.
5 or 6 rounds is a nice size for Granny squares that are fun to knock out, and join together, if working in 8ply/DK yarn.
Round 5 completed.
Other things to consider
Pace yourself when you first start. You will be using muscles differently in your hand, and if you overdo it you might make your hands sore. Start off with an hour and slowly increase that as you get used to the process over the next few weeks.
Pace yourself when you first start. You will be using muscles differently in your hand, and if you overdo it you might make your hands sore. Start off with an hour and slowly increase that as you get used to the process over the next few weeks.
Consider crocheting over the tail of the yarn in the very first round as you make the 11 double crochet stitches. That way, later on, you can pull on the tail and close up the ring tighter, before sewing the end in.
This pattern gives a firm fabric with smaller holes, suitable for blankets. It has a right and a wrong side.
Hook size for 8ply /DK weight is generally 4mm, 4.5mm or 5mm. Hook size for4 ply sock yarn is usually 3mm, 3.5mm or 3.75 mm. There will be a considerable difference in size between 8 ply and 4 ply. I recommend 8 ply for a beginner as the stitches are easier to see. A lighter colour is easier to learn on, and preferably not a tweed, or variegated/patterned yarn. Crepe style yarns with a rounded profile are easier to use, and less splitty than loose yarns with only 2 plies. Wool has more elasticity and is easier to work than cotton for a beginner. Acrylic yarn can be used, if you are allergic to wool, but is a bit harder on the hands.
If you would like it firmer, you can use a smaller hook. If you are a very tight crocheter then you might go up a hook size by half a millimetre. If your hook is too small you risk making your hands ache. Choose a hook with a padded handle, like Clover Amour, or Knit Pro. They cost more, but are worth it.
Going up a hook size will give you more drape in your fabric. If your hook is too big then your stitches will be sloppy looking and unstructured.
If you are finding it difficult to find the corner 3-4 space to work into, then I suggest that you do your corners with 3 double crochets, 1 chain then 3 double crochet stitches, and perhaps use a stitch marker in that space in each of the corners as you work. There will be a slightly bigger hole in the corners in the finished fabric, which will still look quite nice.
Distortion - If you are doing a large number of rounds, with no colour changes, then there may be some rotational twisting in the shape of the square. The easiest way to overcome this effect is to turn the work over at the end of each round so that you are working in opposite directions on alternating rounds. This method is also a good way of getting a blanket to look the same on both sides.
If your square starts to distort into a bowl shape, then it means that your tension has become tighter than at the beginning. You will need to undo the tighter rounds and crochet them again with a bigger hook.
If your square develops ruffled edges, then usually it means you have added in too many stitches into the round. The other common cause is that your tension in the centre was tight, and then you have relaxed to a looser tension in the outer rows. Undo the ruffled rows, and work them again with a smaller hook size.
Joining squares - If you want to sew your squares together you can use whip stitch or mattress stitch with a wool needle. You can join through both legs of the V, which will cause a slight ridge, but is a strong firm join. Alternatively, you can join by stitching through the back loops of the V on each square for a flatter join.
You can also join the squares using your crochet hook, by doing slip stitches, or single crochet stitches. I would recommend watching YouTube videos for these methods.
Changing colours each round can make the work very interesting! There will be a lot of ends to sew in, but you can get some amazing effects when joining small squares together. When you end off the round, cut the yarn leaving a tail of about 15 cm and pull the loop and the end through the slip stitch. Pull it tight. Skip that whole side and move to just past the next corner and join the new colour there. Make a slip knot, join into the space with a slip stitch, and do 3 chains, and continue on as usual around the square.
You can also get some great effects by making each small square a different solid colour. Join them together as is, or you can do a row of a common harmonious, or contrasting, background colour around each one and then join it and do some border rows around the whole blanket to finish off nicely.
US and UK Terms - If you use commercial patterns, then it is wise to check whether they are written in the UK style, or in US terms. Generally, patterns published in books and magazines in Australia, Great Britain and Commonwealth countries are written in UK terms. Mostly on the Internet, USA and sometimes in Europe, they are written in US terms. Such a pest! Some nice designers make them available in both formats.
Clue – look for terms like sc = single crochet, hdc = half double crochet, which would only be in a US terms pattern. Htr would only be in UK Terms patterns.
To convert – there are often charts in books, and Google will give you conversion charts too.
US sc = UK dc
US dc = UK tr
US hdc = UK htr
US tr = UK dtr
Ss and ch are the same for both
I use internet patterns mostly, so I have swapped over to US Terms, but it is handy to be able to work both. It is worth learning the crochet language of symbols, that are used in crochet charts, as many designers only use these, and may not have a written description. The crochet chart usually has a key panel to one side to tell you what the symbols stand for.
Other Stitches - There are many more crochet stitches to learn, and there are different ways to attach your stitch to your work. Some stitches are worked in a different direction, or attached to a different row. So, there is always something new and interesting to learn. You can also make squares without using granny stitches, starting with a circle in the centre and squaring it off in the outer rows, or crocheting back and forth from a foundation row of chains.
Other Patterns - When you get tired of this simple pattern, I suggest that you look for books and internet sites by Shelley Husband Crochet. She designs a squillion fabulous granny square patterns in Geelong, Australia, and although her method is a bit different to mine, it is very well explained, and her patterns include clear diagrams and photos and are available in UK and US terms.
Crochet doesn’t have to be done in the round. There are many patterns that are worked back and forth. Some focus on using different stitches to get textural changes and some focus more on colour changes. Pick one that you like, buy the pattern, and yarn that they suggest, and have a great time making something that you love. If there are any stitches that you don’t understand – go to YouTube and Instagram. Someone there will have a how-to video.
When you get more adventurous, you can go down the rabbit hole on Ravelry. Look out for Hooked on Sunshine (Vanessa Smith), and Janie Crow in Britain for advanced patterns. Also, Dedris Uys, Attic 24, Coastal Crochet.
This pattern gives a firm fabric with smaller holes, suitable for blankets. It has a right and a wrong side.
Hook size for 8ply /DK weight is generally 4mm, 4.5mm or 5mm. Hook size for4 ply sock yarn is usually 3mm, 3.5mm or 3.75 mm. There will be a considerable difference in size between 8 ply and 4 ply. I recommend 8 ply for a beginner as the stitches are easier to see. A lighter colour is easier to learn on, and preferably not a tweed, or variegated/patterned yarn. Crepe style yarns with a rounded profile are easier to use, and less splitty than loose yarns with only 2 plies. Wool has more elasticity and is easier to work than cotton for a beginner. Acrylic yarn can be used, if you are allergic to wool, but is a bit harder on the hands.
If you would like it firmer, you can use a smaller hook. If you are a very tight crocheter then you might go up a hook size by half a millimetre. If your hook is too small you risk making your hands ache. Choose a hook with a padded handle, like Clover Amour, or Knit Pro. They cost more, but are worth it.
Going up a hook size will give you more drape in your fabric. If your hook is too big then your stitches will be sloppy looking and unstructured.
If you are finding it difficult to find the corner 3-4 space to work into, then I suggest that you do your corners with 3 double crochets, 1 chain then 3 double crochet stitches, and perhaps use a stitch marker in that space in each of the corners as you work. There will be a slightly bigger hole in the corners in the finished fabric, which will still look quite nice.
Distortion - If you are doing a large number of rounds, with no colour changes, then there may be some rotational twisting in the shape of the square. The easiest way to overcome this effect is to turn the work over at the end of each round so that you are working in opposite directions on alternating rounds. This method is also a good way of getting a blanket to look the same on both sides.
If your square starts to distort into a bowl shape, then it means that your tension has become tighter than at the beginning. You will need to undo the tighter rounds and crochet them again with a bigger hook.
If your square develops ruffled edges, then usually it means you have added in too many stitches into the round. The other common cause is that your tension in the centre was tight, and then you have relaxed to a looser tension in the outer rows. Undo the ruffled rows, and work them again with a smaller hook size.
Joining squares - If you want to sew your squares together you can use whip stitch or mattress stitch with a wool needle. You can join through both legs of the V, which will cause a slight ridge, but is a strong firm join. Alternatively, you can join by stitching through the back loops of the V on each square for a flatter join.
You can also join the squares using your crochet hook, by doing slip stitches, or single crochet stitches. I would recommend watching YouTube videos for these methods.
Changing colours each round can make the work very interesting! There will be a lot of ends to sew in, but you can get some amazing effects when joining small squares together. When you end off the round, cut the yarn leaving a tail of about 15 cm and pull the loop and the end through the slip stitch. Pull it tight. Skip that whole side and move to just past the next corner and join the new colour there. Make a slip knot, join into the space with a slip stitch, and do 3 chains, and continue on as usual around the square.
You can also get some great effects by making each small square a different solid colour. Join them together as is, or you can do a row of a common harmonious, or contrasting, background colour around each one and then join it and do some border rows around the whole blanket to finish off nicely.
US and UK Terms - If you use commercial patterns, then it is wise to check whether they are written in the UK style, or in US terms. Generally, patterns published in books and magazines in Australia, Great Britain and Commonwealth countries are written in UK terms. Mostly on the Internet, USA and sometimes in Europe, they are written in US terms. Such a pest! Some nice designers make them available in both formats.
Clue – look for terms like sc = single crochet, hdc = half double crochet, which would only be in a US terms pattern. Htr would only be in UK Terms patterns.
To convert – there are often charts in books, and Google will give you conversion charts too.
US sc = UK dc
US dc = UK tr
US hdc = UK htr
US tr = UK dtr
Ss and ch are the same for both
I use internet patterns mostly, so I have swapped over to US Terms, but it is handy to be able to work both. It is worth learning the crochet language of symbols, that are used in crochet charts, as many designers only use these, and may not have a written description. The crochet chart usually has a key panel to one side to tell you what the symbols stand for.
Other Stitches - There are many more crochet stitches to learn, and there are different ways to attach your stitch to your work. Some stitches are worked in a different direction, or attached to a different row. So, there is always something new and interesting to learn. You can also make squares without using granny stitches, starting with a circle in the centre and squaring it off in the outer rows, or crocheting back and forth from a foundation row of chains.
Other Patterns - When you get tired of this simple pattern, I suggest that you look for books and internet sites by Shelley Husband Crochet. She designs a squillion fabulous granny square patterns in Geelong, Australia, and although her method is a bit different to mine, it is very well explained, and her patterns include clear diagrams and photos and are available in UK and US terms.
Crochet doesn’t have to be done in the round. There are many patterns that are worked back and forth. Some focus on using different stitches to get textural changes and some focus more on colour changes. Pick one that you like, buy the pattern, and yarn that they suggest, and have a great time making something that you love. If there are any stitches that you don’t understand – go to YouTube and Instagram. Someone there will have a how-to video.
When you get more adventurous, you can go down the rabbit hole on Ravelry. Look out for Hooked on Sunshine (Vanessa Smith), and Janie Crow in Britain for advanced patterns. Also, Dedris Uys, Attic 24, Coastal Crochet.
********************
Bonus - UK Terms instructions.
First round
Do a slip knot, then do 6 chain stitches. (6 Ch)
Join to the first stitch using a slip stitch (SS) to form a small ring .
Chain 3 stitches (Ch3) This will count as one of the stitches.
Make 11 trebles into the ring.
To do a Chain stitch -
Yarn over hook.
Pull that yarn through the loop that is on the hook.
The stitch should be firm but not tight.
There will be a V shape on the top and a bump at the back of the stitch.
To do a slip stitch –
Push the hook through the v part of the stitch that you want to join to.
Yarn over the hook.
Pull that yarn through all the loops on the hook, and pull it tight.
For each treble -
Yarn over the hook.
Put the hook into the space in the ring, from front to back.
Yarn over the hook and pull that loop through the ring.
There will be 3 loops on the crochet hook.
Yarn over the hook and pull through 2 of the loops.
There will be 2 loops left on the hook.
Yarn over the hook and pull it through the last 2 loops
There will be one loop left on the hook, and one completed treble stitch. (Tr)
Chain 3 stitches (Ch3) This will count as one of the stitches.
Make 11 trebles into the ring.
To do a Chain stitch -
Yarn over hook.
Pull that yarn through the loop that is on the hook.
The stitch should be firm but not tight.
There will be a V shape on the top and a bump at the back of the stitch.
To do a slip stitch –
Push the hook through the v part of the stitch that you want to join to.
Yarn over the hook.
Pull that yarn through all the loops on the hook, and pull it tight.
For each treble -
Yarn over the hook.
Put the hook into the space in the ring, from front to back.
Yarn over the hook and pull that loop through the ring.
There will be 3 loops on the crochet hook.
Yarn over the hook and pull through 2 of the loops.
There will be 2 loops left on the hook.
Yarn over the hook and pull it through the last 2 loops
There will be one loop left on the hook, and one completed treble stitch. (Tr)
Consider crocheting over the tail at the beginning as you do the 12 trebles in the first round. That way you can pull the ring tighter before sewing the ends in.
Join to the V shaped top part of the 1st treble stitch that you made, using a slip stitch. The V looks like a chain stitch sitting at the top edge of the stitches, and sits between the top of the CH3 and the first actual treble. Pull the slip stitch so it is firm.
Join to the V shaped top part of the 1st treble stitch that you made, using a slip stitch. The V looks like a chain stitch sitting at the top edge of the stitches, and sits between the top of the CH3 and the first actual treble. Pull the slip stitch so it is firm.
If you count the V shapes around the edge, there should be 12 of them.
Second Round
First Corner
Chain 3 stitches.
(This will count as a stitch, and will mean that your yarn will now be up the top of the new row, and not at the base, and you will therefore be able to continue the row using treble stitches.)
Place the next stitch in the space between the 2 stitches directly below the Ch3 that you just did. You need to put 5 treble stitches in that same space.
(This will look like 6 stitches because the Ch3 counts as the first stitch.)
Second Corner
Skip 3 stitches in the row below, and use the space between the 3rd and 4th stitches to place another 6 treble stitches.
Third Corner
Skip 3 stitches in the row below, and place 6 trebles in the space after the 3rd skipped stitches.
Fourth Corner
Skip 3 stitches in the row below, and place 6 trebles in the space after the skipped stitches.
Join to the beginning of the row. Look for the V shape that sits between the Ch3 and the first treble that you made into this row, and join onto that with a slip stitch.
If you look at the piece, it should look like a rounded square shape, with 4 well defined corners, with 6 stitches in each corner.
The very first round will now look like it has four groups of three stitches in that round.
Each group of 3 trebles is called a shell, or some patterns will actually refer to it as a Granny Stitch. You can just think of it as a cluster of 3 trebles for the moment, so you don’t get confused.
Third Round
Note - In this pattern, I am going to get you to start each row so that it is just past the corner, as it is easier to do this as an absolute beginner. However, designers may start each row anywhere around the circular round, and often in the corners. And they may use a combination of stitches along the sides, and do all sorts of unusual arrangements in the corners. Sometimes they put extra chain stitches in the corners, and between the shells along the side. To keep it simple, I’m not doing that with this very easy pattern.
Chain 3 to make the first stitch of the 3rd round. Below that you will see a space, which is along the side of the square, between the corners. Place another 2 treble stitches into that space.
(This might feel like you are overlapping the very bottom of the Ch3 – don’t worry, all will be fine!)
Skip 3 stitches in the next corner, and find the space between the 3rd and 4th stitches in that corner to work your next 6 treble stitches.
(This will look as though you are splitting the corner of the row below in half.)
Look for the space along the side of the square. Place 3 trebles in that space.
Skip the first 3 sts in the next corner and do 6 trebles in the space between the 3rd and 4th sts in that corner.
Make 3 trebles in the next side space, followed by 6 trebles in the next corner.
And again – 3 trebles in the next side space, then 6 trebles in the last corner.
Join with a slip stitch to the V at the top of the beginning of the round, that sits between the Ch3 and the first treble stitch.
When you have finished this Round 3, you will see that there are now 2 spaces on each side.
Fourth Round
Ch3, and then do 2 trebles in the space sitting under the Ch3.
Make 3 trebles in the next side space.
Make 6 trebles in the centre space of the corner (between the 3rd and 4th stitches there)
Continue around, making 3 trebles in the side spaces, and 6 trebles in the corners.
Join the round with a slip stitch, as before.
Each succeeding round will have one extra space on each side. Just keep an eye on the corners, and always make sure you know where the end of the round is, so that you do a neat join, and don’t end up going around and around in an awkward spiral!
When you have enough rounds, cut the yarn with a 15cm tail and use a wool needle (or thick Tapestry needle) to sew the end in 3 directions, on the reverse side, within the work so you can’t see it.
5 or 6 rounds is a nice size for granny squares that are fun to knock out and join together, if working in 8 ply.
Big Hint – if you think that you might want to undo the crochet (known as “Frogging”) then don’t sew in the ends just yet! It is very hard to undo if you can’t find the end!
(This will count as a stitch, and will mean that your yarn will now be up the top of the new row, and not at the base, and you will therefore be able to continue the row using treble stitches.)
Place the next stitch in the space between the 2 stitches directly below the Ch3 that you just did. You need to put 5 treble stitches in that same space.
(This will look like 6 stitches because the Ch3 counts as the first stitch.)
Second Corner
Skip 3 stitches in the row below, and use the space between the 3rd and 4th stitches to place another 6 treble stitches.
Third Corner
Skip 3 stitches in the row below, and place 6 trebles in the space after the 3rd skipped stitches.
Fourth Corner
Skip 3 stitches in the row below, and place 6 trebles in the space after the skipped stitches.
Join to the beginning of the row. Look for the V shape that sits between the Ch3 and the first treble that you made into this row, and join onto that with a slip stitch.
If you look at the piece, it should look like a rounded square shape, with 4 well defined corners, with 6 stitches in each corner.
The very first round will now look like it has four groups of three stitches in that round.
Each group of 3 trebles is called a shell, or some patterns will actually refer to it as a Granny Stitch. You can just think of it as a cluster of 3 trebles for the moment, so you don’t get confused.
Third Round
Note - In this pattern, I am going to get you to start each row so that it is just past the corner, as it is easier to do this as an absolute beginner. However, designers may start each row anywhere around the circular round, and often in the corners. And they may use a combination of stitches along the sides, and do all sorts of unusual arrangements in the corners. Sometimes they put extra chain stitches in the corners, and between the shells along the side. To keep it simple, I’m not doing that with this very easy pattern.
Chain 3 to make the first stitch of the 3rd round. Below that you will see a space, which is along the side of the square, between the corners. Place another 2 treble stitches into that space.
(This might feel like you are overlapping the very bottom of the Ch3 – don’t worry, all will be fine!)
Skip 3 stitches in the next corner, and find the space between the 3rd and 4th stitches in that corner to work your next 6 treble stitches.
(This will look as though you are splitting the corner of the row below in half.)
Look for the space along the side of the square. Place 3 trebles in that space.
Skip the first 3 sts in the next corner and do 6 trebles in the space between the 3rd and 4th sts in that corner.
Make 3 trebles in the next side space, followed by 6 trebles in the next corner.
And again – 3 trebles in the next side space, then 6 trebles in the last corner.
Join with a slip stitch to the V at the top of the beginning of the round, that sits between the Ch3 and the first treble stitch.
When you have finished this Round 3, you will see that there are now 2 spaces on each side.
Fourth Round
Ch3, and then do 2 trebles in the space sitting under the Ch3.
Make 3 trebles in the next side space.
Make 6 trebles in the centre space of the corner (between the 3rd and 4th stitches there)
Continue around, making 3 trebles in the side spaces, and 6 trebles in the corners.
Join the round with a slip stitch, as before.
Each succeeding round will have one extra space on each side. Just keep an eye on the corners, and always make sure you know where the end of the round is, so that you do a neat join, and don’t end up going around and around in an awkward spiral!
When you have enough rounds, cut the yarn with a 15cm tail and use a wool needle (or thick Tapestry needle) to sew the end in 3 directions, on the reverse side, within the work so you can’t see it.
5 or 6 rounds is a nice size for granny squares that are fun to knock out and join together, if working in 8 ply.
Big Hint – if you think that you might want to undo the crochet (known as “Frogging”) then don’t sew in the ends just yet! It is very hard to undo if you can’t find the end!
If you find a mistake, you will need to undo back to that mistake to fix it, so stop and check your work often to see if it looks right.
First round
Second round
Third Round
Fourth Round
Wrong side of work
Fifth Round
Cheers, Gayetha
